In extraordinarily simple terms, there are three general strategies employed. You need to be agile enough to switch game plans quickly as the action of the match unfolds.
The Blockade
This comprises of creating a 6-thick wall of checkers, or at a minimum as thick as you might manage, to barricade in your opponent’s pieces that are on your 1-point. This is considered to be the most suitable procedure at the begining of the match. You can assemble the wall anywhere within your 11-point and your two-point and then shift it into your home board as the game continues.
The Blitz
This consists of locking your home board as quick as possible while keeping your opponent on the bar. i.e., if your challenger tosses an early 2 and moves one checker from your 1-point to your 3-point and you then toss a five-five, you will be able to play 6/1 six/one eight/three eight/three. Your opposer is now in big-time trouble taking into account that they have 2 checkers on the bar and you have locked half your inside board!
The Backgame
This tactic is where you have two or more anchors in your opponent’s home board. (An anchor spot is a position filled by at least two of your checkers.) It needs to be employed when you are significantly behind as it much improves your circumstances. The strongest locations for anchor spots are near your competitor’s lower points and also on adjacent points or with a single point in between. Timing is integral for an effectual backgame: besides, there’s no point having two nice anchor spots and a complete wall in your own home board if you are then required to break down this straight away, while your challenger is shifting their pieces home, considering that you don’t have other additional checkers to shift! In this case, it’s more tolerable to have pieces on the bar so that you are able to preserve your position until your opposer provides you an opportunity to hit, so it can be a good idea to try and get your opponent to hit them in this situation!